Pipe end design
As a rule, shortened pipes are not used in trenchless pipeline sections. We can show you the appropriate procedure for exceptions to the rule.
On-site manufacture of shortened pipes is shown in the PDF file which you can download below.
1 Required tools
- Angle grinder with cutting disc for grinding off the T-profile with adhering mortar
- Scrub disc or rotary steel brush to remove the epoxy resin primer and the adhesive layer
- Blow torch for preheating the pipe end
- Hammer and chisel for knocking off the mortar layer
- Knife for cutting through the PE/PP-coating
1. Mark circumferential cut A and longitudinal cut B.
5. Use a blow torch to heat the pipe end from the inside to between 60 and 70°C. This is sufficient for stripping off the PE-coating.
2. Use an angle grinder to cut through the FCM coating
6. Use a knife to make a circumferential (C) and a longitudinal (D) incision into the plastic coating right down to the steel surface.
… down to the T-ribbing, if possible.
7. Strip off the PE/PP coating. If the temperature is right, the coating should come off easily and smoothly. If it tears, allow the pipe end to cool a little. If stripping is difficult, apply more heat to the pipe end.
3. Knock off the cement mortar layer using a hammer and chisel.
8. If required, use a scrub disc to remove any epoxy primer and adhesive residues.
9. Bevel the pipe end as required. For butt-weld joints, use an angle grinder to cut a 30° bevel, leaving a residual web height of approximately 1.6 mm. Then use a rotary steel brush to bevel the PE/PP-coating.
4. Grind off the T-ribbing to the level of the PE/PP coating with an angle grinder